Slow Club – San Francisco – A Media Gulch Eatery; Good Food; Service Lacking – 6.0 – James Meléndez / Jaime Patricio Meléndez

While I look for, expect and pray for amazing food; wondrous food can suddenly be dulled if the service does not deliver. I do believe that the food quality is quite good; but will not go back here due to service that is miserbly rude, un-happy waitstaff. I have noticed one waitstaff that I have been to was so unbelievably rude to me and my guests and observed here being talkative and nice to other tables she was serving. Now, this is not the first time I have had exceedingly bad service; I had the same waitperson wait on my table. I am completely understanding of someone not having a good day; but I have to beg a difference when I or my guest are engaging and friendly. There is no excuse here. I think eating out is something that I work exceptionally hard for and something that I look forward to doing. I think paying for bad service only encourages it to continue. I do think good service should be reward and equally a bad service restaurant should be noted.

I do not agree with “it cool to be unfriendly” or “tough love is the only way you will respect me.” I am truly tired of the horrible service; I will not be in awe of actually being waited on; as if I was being served for free! Don’t go here if you expect good service; to edgy and not edgy in that cool Media Gulch way but in that ennui producing way. I will not refuse to go back until there is a re-engineering of service.

Bar Tartine, San Francisco, A Treasury and Homage to Taste – 9.5 – James Meléndez

Bar Tartine
561 Valencia Street
San Francisco, California
415 487 1600

Bar Tartine, an absolutely fabulous off-spring of it’s famous parent, Tartine Bakery, situated in the ever popular restaurant row of Valencia Street. In fact, the two best restaurants in the area face off across the street from each other, waiting to see who is going to blink – Limon. Bar Tartine, has class and style that no other restaurant nearby can offer. The environs hark back to what feels like an art deco meets modern décor; it feels like Aspen with an antler chandelier and something that reminds me of what I call Epicurica. The dimly lit and gorgeous white candle flicker sets the stage for a spectacular evenings worth of food and conversation that will be memorable.

While there is a volume of fellow diners conversing I do not think it is louder than any other dining experience in San Francisco. The music is ambient and modern and helps to lubricate the noise with a flow of music assuring diners the restaurant is still the steward.

My dinner companion and I began with the warm olives; now warmed olives sound intriguing but nothing extraordinary. I am an olive fan and I am constantly seeking olives kissed with perfection. These olives were small and large, black and green, Moroccan wrinkled black blanketed and cured with natures best flavors of citrus, garlic and anise; and the warmth gives these Mediterranean treasures a special touch; you feel special and the flavor profile gives an assurance of things to come.

The bread and butter deserves attention; the bread was a French-style whole wheat; the texture was super soft and fresh—the bread and the butter had almost the same consistency; and that is a glorious testament to excellence in their bread making capabilities.

The Heirloom tomato salad is the best Heirloom tomato salad I have eaten this year maybe, in fact, ever. I have eaten many this Heirloom tomato salads this year; I feel obligated because the rarity of time to enjoy these wondrous tomatoes is limited and they are about summer and warm weather; as summer closes I consume and passionately order this salad wherever I go. This salad had small and many varietal of Heirlooms; gently and carefully cut; the basil, which in many tomato salads the pieces are too large; this basil was also gently cut. The micro fine Pecorino shavings were a clear success not only was it visually pleasing it gently added flavor to each forkful of salad. Each component contributed to making this an amazing salad and the portion was very generous everything was a balanced.

The wine list is well edited; a refreshing list to see that California wines though important do not put the offering in a head lock. Oregon wines are rare in California; the selection of French wines was well chosen. The offering of wines by the glass are not only well selected but also brave. The Andrew Rich Columbia Valley Malbec was suited to the menu and the wine was markedly different and delicious and especially unique when compared with other Malbecs. These are signals to me of passion.

The service was gentle and attentive and usually there when we needed him and made us both feel we received everything we need in a timely manner: thoughtful, gentle and never intrusive.

My second dish was the Pork Belly; and Pork Belly for those who have never had it is something to not only try but you will find yourself looking for this time and again. No fork was needed–it is sumptuous and the flavor is remarkable. The portion was the right size; the Pork Belly was in the center of the plate surrounded by white beans and a puree of bacon. Decadence is not the right word; appropriate is the better descriptor. The bacon was finely chopped and added to the overall success of the plate with its nuance of salt and it gave flavor to the white beans. Pork Belly can go from delicious to not in only a few minutes of under or overcooking. This dish was expertly prepared. My dinner companion had the Gnocchi. The Gnocchi was light and delicate and immensely flavorful. The Gnocchi were pillows of delight.

The chocolate soufflé was beautiful; the texture is a loving testament to what chocolate is all about, the oval of vanilla and the caramel sauce with candied hazelnuts truly decadent.

Bar Tartine, under the tutelage of Elisabeth Prueitt and Chad Robertson, show a remarkable love for food and wine. The price points were very reasonable for the quality offered; the cuisine is a California interpretation of many culinary show stoppers. There are very few combinations of getting a restaurant right and many to get them wrong; I walk away from Bar Tartine wanting to walk right back in; Elisabeth and Chad balance what makes for a successful restaurant with a compelling set of offerings. Simply well done!

¡Buen Provecho!

UPDATE: Bar Tartine is so even in their menu; I like the transition from season to season is done gently and not abruptly. I enjoyed the sardine and heirloom tomato salad; the sardines which were delicately fried; the salad also had small sprigs of frisee. The scallop crudo was gorgeous–packed with flavour but not overly so–I think there was passion fruit used in the citrus mix. The black cod was a very generous piece and I loved seeing beautiful flakes of Cyprus salt on the black skin of this fish; perfectly cooked; there most memorable part was the Chanterelle mushrooms that were on the bottom of the dish. The veal cheeks nearly required a spoon to scoop up each piece; the bread was something that I have never complemented the waitstaff; but you could not helping doing so. This is the most moist and easy to chew crust; at one point, I am not sure what was softer the bread or the butter. The roasted banana parfait was beautiful; basically a banana ice cream that is surrounded by a deep chocolate sauce, flower on the base; and toasty sweet pecans.

Bar Tartine is a place to go for not the yupsters that go there for…. go there regardless; you will enjoy the ambiance sans yuppies; the antlered chandalier and the art deco interior makes you realize isn’t this why we eat out? The life of our hard work and efforts is ultimately to enjoy excellence in the kitchen. Each dish is executed with near perfection; delicate cuts, thoughtful additions and flawless ingredients.

Copyright 2007 – James Meléndez / Jaime Patricio Meléndez

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.