SPQR – San Francisco – 9.3 – James Meléndez / Jaime Patricio Meléndez

SPQR is a dimly lit eatery that pleases the soul as much as the body—the ambiance is set and the romance begins.  I am surprised there were not stronger star review power here—because I think it certainly deserves it.

I strongly recommend ordering a few small plates but you should get a larger plate—they are the right size—the small plates are quite small and only meant to impart a flavor for the moment and not over the entire meal.  Last visit, this week I enjoyed one antipasti Chanterelle mushroom with spinach, bacon and garlic – a wonderful medley of flavors—I could have had double what I had.  I was tempted and ordered the fried half chicken–a light crunchy and completely flavorful, juicy and slightly spiced.  I had two glasses of wine each with a separate purpose; the Baron di Paolo Enosi Dolomitti Alto Adige is a white blend of Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Gewürztraminer which like an airplane is take off for the palette only whetting your appetite for more food and getting the palette ready for some red.  I started with the Bruno Rocca Dolcetto d’Alba Vigna Trifole 2006 with it’s crisp acid kept the rhythm with each plate.  The chicken I had a bold red—never mind that it was chicken but a gorgeous half fried chicken with Cayenne spicing which easily held Bruno Rocca Dolcetto d’Alba Vigna Trifole 2006 not in check but a thorough complement.

The wine and food were as ambient as the music and the fun and easy going service had a perfect approach of just the right tough.   A splendid meal.

© 2008 James Meléndez / Jaime Patricio Meléndez

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Chez Panisse: A Pantheon of the Modern, Earthy and Epicurean Cookery – 9.6 – James Meléndez / Jaime Patricio Meléndez

Chez Panisse, a pantheon of the modern, earthy and epicurean cookery, a must visit restaurant for innovative and lovingly created California cuisine. There is a lot of sensory appreciation to be enjoyed. The interior design feels very Frank Lloyd Wright; it is a complete homage to Berkeley and it’s environs; it is a soothing architecture and design that is not meant to be anything other than a wooded interior with beautiful design treatments that are simple and organic.

The service was exquisite from beginning to end. The hostess was so gracious and welcoming. Took my jacket and was conscientious about the contents within. Immediately, a waiter notices us noticing our menu and comes over, as if he just walked by, to ask for our drinks order. He brought a delicious treasure trove of dainty yet robust collection of olives and a few seconds later we received a hearthened loaf; crunchy on the outside and delicate inside.
We order our White Burgundy; someone else brings us our wine; my lunch mate and I were talking so we did not notice it was the Riesling. The waiter has our wine and quickly and diplomatically corrects the error.

The first dishes were so appealing that we could not just have our own; we decide to have it family style; we order the Tuna Tartare, the required Heirloom Tomato, and the Fig and Ricotta. We receive the Heirloom Tomato salad first (I mean requisite because you just have to order if you see it–Heirlooms are one of the greatest things to eat)–I wish it were available like water. Perhaps if Heirlooms were plentiful and always available we might be a more peaceful people; there were two distinct Heirlooms a Green Zebra and Black Brandywine; they were quartered and then quartered again. I so often eat a boring slice; this was a great way to serve it because I had a near difficult time noticing where it was and what mixed green was next. A gorgeous and glorious salad. My favourite salad was the Fig and Ricotta; the Mission figs were heated and surrounded with an ultra thin bacon and slabs of Ricotta (just made that morning); fresh Ricotta will allow you to never swallow the other stuff. The Tuna Tartare was super luscious and fresh; each salad superbly executed and there is nothing I needed except for more.

The seconds came, I ordered the best Chicken Paillard that I have ever had; laser thin, the most beautiful potato swords; flash fried; this could easily be over or undercooked; instead mine were perfectly cooked and white turnips. This dish has inspired me to cook this dish in some near future.
Between our second dishes and dessert we had a plate of Comice pear and Mission figs; simple and yet lovingly Mediterranean.

To finish this superb meal we had a strawberry shortcake; the strawberries were from Lucero Farm; the strawberries were flawless and best of all was the shortcake and Crme Frache. The most ideal way to finish a meal that will be in my long-term memory. The meal, the service and environs were par excellence. This is a meal that I repeat again; with seasonally adjusted ingredients of course.

© 2007 James Meléndez / Jaime Patricio Meléndez